Full Day Practice - Esk Buttress, Dow Crag

Sunday 24th April 2005

Every 3 months the team undertakes a full day practice.  In order to practice marsupial rescues on big crags the team decided to visit Esk Buttress on Dow Crag, southern flank of Scafell Pike overlooking Upper Eskdale.  The approach was from Taw House Farm and Scale Bridge, climbing up the zig zags and walking in via Sampson's Stones and the bottom of Cam Spout.  A climbers descent route from the top of the crags was the quickest way to the top.  Around 20 team members turned up for the practice which was thankfully sufficient to carry up the loads which included the two 600 foot static ropes, crag sets and a dozen climbing ropes.  Also Oxygen and Casualty Care kit to deal with any rescue which the team might be called to. 

(Two 600 ft ropes carried up by heroes Dave Willey and Rob Friend   )

 

Fabulous weather for a great day out in the crags as can be seen in the following photos.

 

 

   
Mobile 1 parked up at the bottom of the Zig zags which lead up Scale Gill. Brock crag is on the top left, Hardknott Fell to the right and Crinkle Crags in centre background
Water and regrouping stop at Camspout.  Dow Crag and Esk Buttress in the centre with Penn summit poking out above the crag and Rough Crag to the top left
Top of the crag looking back toward Scar Lathing and Sampson's Stones with the River Esk winding its way down through Great Moss. How does one look cool at the top of a 800 foot crag? - put on the shades (Ben)
Julian Carradice giving the exercise objectives, safety brief and getting the team fired up after the lunch and sunbathing break. 
This is one of the many reasons why we all hill walking and climbing.  You don't get views and exposure like this doing the gardening.  Great place for a view of Eskdale with Cam Spout Crags, Scafell top right
Two 5-point belays - one for the casualty (left) and the other for the rescuer (right).  When the rescuer reaches the casualty he clips the casualty into his system (see photograph later) and then the casualty's lowering rope becomes the exercise safety rope.  The two man load is taken on the rescuers line. 
Martin Bentley is on the Petzel Stop lowering device backed up by David Kennedy - Casualty lowering into position rope and marsupial safety back up
The Petzel Stop is a dead man's locking device which would lock the rope if Martin was to let go (some creep takes place due to the load).
Rescuers lowering rope with identical arrangement to the other 5-point belay and lowering system.  Paul Cook controlling communication between the top and the rescuer who will give instructions - "lower away steady as you go"

"hold it there and lock-off"  ............" going over the overhang".............

"20 foot to go"...........   "safely down, give me slack" ......"take in ropes"

The actual lowering operation including picking up the casualty on the way down lasted around 20 minutes. 
The Petzel Stop with hand on the Dead Man's handle - note the blue plastic rope protection sheath to prevent damage to the rope whilst being fed out over sharp edges. 
Exercise casualty being lowered over the edge into position some 30 feet below
Good shot of the 5-point belay.  Wires with Crabs.  Note the Clove hitches which provides greater protection against rope damage (5-point becomes 10 strand) but at the expense of some equalization of tension.
Rob has just completed the first lower as the casualty. The climbers in the background give some indication of scale.  The top of the overhang is probably 400 foot above.  The route to the right is Bridges Route (classic 600 foot)
Rescuer and casualty appear over the edge which is probably 200 foot below the belay
Zoomed in they are just about to go over the overhang - a 100 foot hanging in space.  Great for viewing the valley below with total trust in the lowering team's above.
Some difficult terrain to come down with a casualty hanging off your waist. 
Colin Smith is the rescuer and Ian Harwood the casualty.  Ian's weight is taken up on the lowering rope via a Shunt and tape to his harness (located above his head and adjustable for height) - a chest tape harness is hooked into the rescuers rope to keep his upper body upright and preventing the casualty from toppling over.  Finally the casualty and rescue are joined at the crutch vie their harnesses.  All very comfortable providing you pick a casualty smaller than you (that's why I chose little Rob)
Only 50 feet to go before they are down on safe ground.  This exercise was repeated 4 times.  A rescue technique regularly used by the Wasdale Team for crag fast walkers and climbers.  It can be used for non spinal injuries e.g. broken arms and legs and head injuries.  For serious trauma cases a vertical stretcher lower would be used unless a straight helicopter evacuation can be effected (RAF Sea King with winching capabilities. 

Page created 30 April 2005