Broad Stand - How to Ascend and Descend

The Corner Route

Broad Stand is not a hard climb but there is a definite technique.  It may only be an 8 foot pitch but if you come off it you can go a long way.  There are two alternatives the outside route (very exposed) the corner route (regarded as the safest method). The following describes the moves to get you up and down.

   

Get yourself comfortably placed in the corner

 

Using the sloping ledge on the left for your left foot get your right foot high  into the crack in the corner

When you have a firm hold it then requires a confident layback, pushing away from the corner with your feet.  A good hand hold is essential to avoid you catapulting backwards.

The up onto your stomach.  There is a little triangular shaped notch in the top slab to get your left hand finger into.

Once up you need to still take care

Safely up - to get down just reverse the photos

This is a shot of the outside route which we tried and found to be a lot harder.  Awkward to climb and if you slip out you drop straight down the slope to the bottom some 30 foot below.

 

Page created 29 July 2005